Savu

03/09/05

Family-style Asian fusion dishes mostly succeed in the lobby of the chic W Hotel.

by Contributor at Citysearch

The Scene
Situated in the swank W Hotel, Savu embodies minimalist, urbane cool. Icy tones of celery-green accentuate blond wood and brushed aluminum. Thumping house music is more suited to a Midtown club. The one softening element is a gauzy white curtain that separates the restaurant from the lobby. Like the surroundings, service is on the chilly side--but comes with solid menu recommendations.

The Food
Creative Asian-fusion combinations, served family-style, are the highlight of a trip to Savu. Skip the spicy shrimp summer rolls, which sear the tongue, and opt for nicely dressed Szechuan lobster rolls. The crackling calamari salad with miso dressing blends textures and tastes for a pre-entree must. Mandarin beef tenderloin is fragrant with a soy-orange glaze and wasabi mashed potatoes; wok-charred ahi tuna is anemic in comparison. For a finale, lemongrass creme brulee packs amazing flavor.