Frontera Mex-Mex Grill

06/20/06

Tex-Mex and authentic Mexican flavors shine at this low-key Buckhead grill.

by Contributor

The Scene
Tucked in a strip mall north of central Buckhead, this modest grill is part of a chain of suburban Mexican restaurants owned by a native of Monterrey. Eschewing border-town kitsch, the decor features dark purple walls, recessed lighting and deep booths in soft, sandy yellow. A brimming fountain centers the quiet patio dining.

The Food
Frontera offers a nice variation on the usual cantina fare. Crispy tri-colored chips come with three piquant homemade salsas--sexy, smooth tomatillo avocado, hearty roasted tomato pepper and traditional fresh tomato garlic. Appetizers range from the expected cheese dip, nachos and quesadillas to creative tostadas de ceviche with tangy bites of fish and a smoky red sauce. Entrees include tasty popular standards--enchiladas, lightly breaded chiles stuffed with meat or cheese, tender steak, chicken or shrimp fajitas--as well as flavorful, nuanced dishes like camarones tepoztlan--grilled marinated shrimp served atop white poblano pepper and corn rice.