King & I Restaurants

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
A longtime anchor of Ansley Square Shopping Center, King and I does a brisk takeout service and caters to neighborhood regulars with an inexpensive menu and attentive service. The stained acoustic ceiling tiles and wood paneling won't impress a date, but the Thai dolls scattered around the room brighten things up. The owner will remember you from your last visit.

The Food
Fresh basil and ginger permeate the Thai-Chinese standards, though most dishes are toned down to suit the sensitive American palate. Asian food lovers will notice the absence of traditional Thai fish sauce from most entrees, and even dishes with spicy warnings are relatively mild. The pad Thai, creamy Massaman curry and noodle dishes come in ample servings and are suffused with complex flavors. The seafood, however, tends to be rubbery and bland. Start with sweetly potent Thai iced tea or coffee, crispy bean-sprout-filled basil rolls or meaty lotus blossom dumplings. The refreshing tum kha kai soup with lemongrass and coconut milk pleases, but doesn't come in a hot pot as advertised.