Bacchanalia

Contributor

Citysearch

In Short
This urban destination restaurant--the centerpiece of a sleekly rehabilitated factory complex--announces itself by a long entryway that houses an upscale grocery. Inside, a smart, dark lounge opens onto a dramatic, high-ceilinged dining room. Shiny, mustard-colored brick frames large factory windows, and a long, low-lit bar offers a view of the scrupulously neat, glassed-in kitchen. Richly clothed banquettes border an airy fabric pavilion which encloses a private dining area. Service is excellent, as to be expected. Impeccable cooking techniques applied to organic or small-farm produce and carefully selected meats and seafood. Offerings on the $70 prix-fixe menu are pegged to the seasons and change often, but expect citrusy-lump crab fritters and locally farmed pork, to hand-poured artisanal cheeses and desserts made from apples picked earlier that afternoon. Happy surprises--a smoked trout amuse, a lemon granita intermezzo, or a postprandial chocolate truffle laced with lemongrass--show up at every turn.